What Did the Pomo Tribe Wear

What Did the Pomo Tribe Wear?

The Pomo people of Northern California wore clothing made almost entirely from materials they gathered and processed by hand. Men typically went bare-chested and wore simple aprons or breechcloths, while women wore knee-length double aprons made from shredded plant fibers. Animal hides, feathers, and shells played major roles in both daily wear and ceremonial outfits.

Daily Clothing: Simple and Functional

For everyday wear, the Pomo used what was around them. The most common material was tule, a tall reed that grows in marshes. Women pounded and shredded the tule stalks to make them soft, then twisted them into cordage to create fringed aprons. These aprons hung from a belt and covered the front and back.

Men wore a breechcloth made of softened deerskin or woven tule. In cooler weather, they added a cape or robe made from rabbit fur strips twisted around cords. This was warm, lightweight, and waterproof. Children wore very little — usually nothing until about age six, then a simple skirt or apron.

For footwear, the Pomo made moccasins from deerskin. They were simple wrap-around designs, held with sinew lacing. Many people went barefoot most of the time, especially in summer. Moccasins were more common in winter or when traveling over rough terrain.

Materials: Everything from the Land

The Pomo were resourceful. They used over 40 different plant species for clothing and accessories. Here are the key materials and how they used them:

• Deerskin: Used for moccasins, robes, aprons, and ceremonial regalia. The hide was tanned with animal brains and smoked to make it soft.
• Tule: The main fiber for skirts, aprons, and mats. It was also used to make capes that shed rain.
• Rabbit fur: Cut into strips and twisted around cords to make warm blankets and robes. These were highly valued trade items.
• Feathers: Duck, quail, woodpecker, and eagle feathers were used for headdresses, capes, and skirt decorations.
• Shells: Clam, abalone, and olivella shells were drilled and strung into necklaces, earrings, and skirt ornaments. Clam shell disk beads were also used as money.
• Buckskin: Softened leather used for belts, headbands, and pouches. It was dyed with natural pigments from plants and minerals.

Ceremonial and Dance Regalia

Pomo ceremonial clothing was far more elaborate than daily wear. The focus was on feathers — specifically the bright red scalps of the acorn woodpecker. These were attached to headbands, capes, and skirts. A single headdress could use hundreds of woodpecker scalps and take months to complete.

Dance skirts for women were made of layered tule or leather strips, decorated with abalone pendants and clam shell beads. Men wore feather capes that covered their backs and arms. They also wore tall cylindrical basket hats during certain dances, woven so tightly they could hold water.

The Pomo also made and wore beaded regalia for the Kuksu ceremony, a secret society ritual. These included shell-bead belts, feathered wands, and ornate necklaces. Every piece was handcrafted and carried spiritual meaning.

Basket Hats: A Signature Accessory

The Pomo are famous for their basketry, and hats were a big part of that. Women wore conical basket hats every day. They were woven from sedge root, willow shoots, and redbud bark. The weave was so fine that a completed hat looked like cloth, not plant material.

These hats served a practical purpose — they cushioned the head when carrying heavy loads in a carrying basket on the back. The hat distributed the weight of the tumpline, a strap that wrapped around the forehead.

Men wore basket hats less often, but some styles existed for ceremonies. These were often decorated with feathers, beads, and quail plumes. A well-made basket hat was a sign of skill and status. Today, Pomo basket weavers still create these hats using the same traditional techniques.

Jewelry and Body Ornamentation

Jewelry was worn by both men and women. The most common pieces were necklaces made of clam shell disk beads. These beads were ground into perfect circles using a stone drill, then strung on sinew or plant fiber. Long necklaces hung down to the chest and were worn daily.

Earrings were also popular. Both men and women pierced their ears and wore strings of beads or abalone shell pendants. Some people wore nose piercings with a single shell bead.

For special occasions, the Pomo painted their faces and bodies. They used red ochre, charcoal, and white clay. The designs were geometric — circles, lines, and dots. Each pattern had meaning, often tied to the specific ceremony or dancer.

How to Care for and Replicate Pomo-Style Clothing

If you are a history enthusiast, reenactor, or collector, here is how to handle Pomo-style pieces or materials.

For genuine antique pieces, handle them as little as possible. Oils from your skin damage plant fibers and leather. Wear cotton gloves. Store items flat in acid-free tissue paper. Keep them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Mothballs can harm feathers, so use cedar blocks instead.

If you are making a reproduction, start with the right materials. Use natural deerskin from a tannery that offers brain-tanned or smoke-tanned leather. For fiber pieces, you can substitute jute or raffia for tule, but understand they will not drape the same. Real tule is available online from Native American craft suppliers.

For cleaning, never wash fiber clothing in water. It will shrink and lose its shape. Instead, gently vacuum with a low-suction attachment through a screen. For leather, use a dry brush to remove dust. Avoid saddle soap on antique pieces — it strips the natural oils.

Pro tip: If you are recreating a Pomo apron or skirt, study museum photos first. The construction method matters as much as the material. Note how the fringe is cut, how the belt is attached, and how the layers overlap.