What Did the Incas Wear for Clothing

Basic Inca Garments for Men and Women

Inca men wore a simple tunic called an unku. It was a rectangular piece of fabric with a slit for the head and holes for the arms. They tied it at the waist with a sash. Women wore a long dress called an anacu – a large rectangle of cloth wrapped around the body and pinned at the shoulders. A wide belt (chumpi) held it in place.

Over the tunic or dress, both men and women used a cape or cloak called a yacolla (for men) or a lliklla (for women). These were draped over the shoulders and fastened with a pin (tupu). The tupu was often made of copper, silver, or gold – it doubled as jewelry and a practical fastener.

The Inca wardrobe was simple in shape but rich in detail. Every garment was handwoven, usually on a backstrap loom. The weave was tight and durable. Colors came from natural dyes – bright reds from cochineal insects, yellows from flowers, blues from indigo. A typical outfit might include stripes or geometric patterns that told the wearer’s community and status.

Textile Materials: Cotton, Alpaca, and Vicuña

The Incas had three main sources of fiber: cotton from the coast, and alpaca and vicuña wool from the highlands. Cotton was common for everyday wear in warmer areas. Alpaca wool was warmer and more common in the mountains. Vicuña wool – incredibly soft and fine – was reserved for royalty and nobility.

Processing the fibers was labor-intensive. Women cleaned, carded, spun, and dyed the fibers before weaving. The Incas had no looms with pedals; they used a simple stick loom that was tied around the weaver’s back. This produced fabric that was lightweight but strong.

If you want to understand Inca textiles today, feel the difference between a rough alpaca blanket and a vicuña scarf. Vicuña is softer than cashmere. The Incas recognized this quality and made it a symbol of power. Common people wore coarse llama wool or cotton. Only the elite wore vicuña.

How Social Status Showed Through Clothing

Clothing was the quickest way to spot an Inca noble. The uncu (royal tunic) was covered in small square patterns called tocapu. These were woven symbols that only nobles could wear. The pattern itself was a kind of language – it told the wearer’s lineage, achievements, and role.

The Inca emperor, the Sapa Inca, wore the finest vicuña cloth. He also had a special headband called the llautu, a braided cord wrapped multiple times around his head. The fringe on the llautu – the mascapaipa – was the ultimate symbol of royal authority. Only the emperor could wear the red fringe of vicuña wool.

Commoners were restricted to plain, undecorated clothing. They could not wear gold jewelry, feathers, or vicuña. The Inca government controlled textile production tightly. Every province had to produce specific types of cloth as tribute. This ensured that clothing remained a clear marker of rank.

Inca Footwear: Sandals and Leggings

The Incas wore simple sandals called ushutas. They were made from leather – usually llama hide – or woven plant fibers like cabuya. The sole was often made of multiple layers of leather stitched together. A strip of leather went between the first two toes and tied around the ankle.

For cold highland travel, men added pututos – woven leg wraps that went from ankle to knee. These were made of alpaca or llama wool and held in place with ties. They worked like thick gaiters, keeping the legs warm and protecting from scrub brush.

If you’re inspired by Inca sandals for modern wear, look for minimal leather sandals with a toe loop. They are essentially the same design. The key difference: Inca sandals had a stiff sole made of multiple leather layers. Modern versions often have softer rubber soles. For authenticity, choose vegetable-tanned leather.

Headwear and Accessories: The Inca Signature Look

Inca headwear was diverse. Men often wore the llautu headband, but in different colors. A black llautu was for commoners. Nobles wore colored bands. Feathers were a major status symbol – the panache of feathers (often from the colorful macaw or flamingo) was worn in battles and ceremonies.

Women rarely wore headdresses. Instead, they draped a lliklla (shoulder mantle) over their heads like a shawl. They used tupus (pins) to hold it in place. Earrings were common – men wore large gold or silver ear spools to show rank. The bigger the spool, the higher the status. The Spanish called them “orejones” (big ears).

Necklaces and bracelets were made from seashells, stone beads, and metal. The Spondylus shell (spiny oyster) was especially valuable – it was used as a trade item and worn as jewelry. If you want a subtle Inca-inspired accessory, a simple brass tupu pin or a woven headband with geometric stripes is a good choice.

Caring for Inca-Style Textiles Today

If you own alpaca or llama wool items (sweaters, scarves, blankets), treat them like delicate fabrics. Hand wash in cool water with a mild wool wash. Do not wring – press the water out with a towel. Dry flat away from heat. Vicuña wool should be dry-cleaned only. Avoid fabric softeners – they coat the fibers and ruin the natural softness.

Cotton Inca-style tunics (like those sold in Andean markets) are easier to care for. Wash in cold water, gentle cycle, and hang dry. Iron on medium heat. The dyes are often natural and may bleed – test a hidden corner first. Store in a cool, dry place away from moths. Cedar blocks or lavender sachets work well.

For leather sandals inspired by Inca ushutas, condition the leather every few months with a natural leather balm. Avoid soaking them in water. If they get wet, let them air dry away from direct heat. The plant-fiber versions are decorative – they will not hold up to daily wear.