Can You Put Boots in the Washer

Why the Washing Machine Is Risky for Boots

Throwing boots in the washer can ruin them fast. The tumbling action stresses the glue that holds soles together. Leather and suede shrink, crack, or lose their shape. Even “washable” boots might get misshapen if you use the wrong cycle.

Heat is another problem. Hot water breaks down leather fibers and melts waterproof membranes. The spin cycle can warp the boot’s structure — especially around the toe and heel. Once that happens, no amount of reshaping fixes it.

Boots with metal shanks or steel toes can damage your machine. The heavy parts bang against the drum and chip the enamel. Some washers even void the warranty if you put boots in them.

Boots You Should Never Machine Wash

Leather boots — including cowhide, calfskin, and patent leather — never go in the washer. Water strips the natural oils that keep leather supple. The detergent dries them out further, causing cracks and stiffness. Saddle soap and a damp cloth work better.

Suede and nubuck boots are equally fragile. Water leaves permanent water stains. The agitator rubs the nap flat, ruining the texture. Use a suede brush and a specialized eraser instead.

Boots with Goodyear welt construction (like Red Wing, Wolverine, or Allen Edmonds) should never get submerged. The lockstitch thread can swell and loosen. The cork filler beneath the insole disintegrates when soaked. Hand clean these with a leather cleaner and conditioner.

Insulated winter boots — think Sorel or The North Face — have synthetic fills that clump in the wash. Waterlogged insulation takes days to dry and may grow mold. Spot clean with a mild soap and cold water.

Boots That Can Go in the Washer

Some boots survive a machine wash if you’re careful. Canvas boots like Converse or Palladium Baggies are fine — they’re made of woven cotton with rubber soles. Canvas hiking boots from Merrell or Keen (if labeled “machine washable”) also work.

Rubber rain boots — Hunter, Tretorn, or generic options — can go in the washer. The rubber doesn’t absorb water, so the main risk is damage to the machine from the heavy rubber. Wash them in a laundry bag on cold with no spin.

Synthetic work boots made from nylon or polyester mesh (like some steel-toe boots from Timberland PRO) are often labeled washable. Check the tag first. If it says “wipe clean” or “spot clean only,” skip the washer.

How to Machine Wash Boots Safely

Start by removing laces and insoles. Wash laces in a small mesh bag, and clean insoles by hand with mild soap and water. Brush off loose dirt and mud with a stiff brush — don’t let it clog your machine.

Place boots in a pillowcase or mesh laundry bag. This cushions the drum and prevents the boots from banging around. Set your washer to cold water and the gentlest cycle (delicate or handwash). Add a small amount of mild detergent — no bleach or fabric softener.

Skip the spin cycle if possible. It puts too much force on the boots. When the wash finishes, remove the boots immediately. Never leave wet boots sitting in the machine. Reshape them by hand and stuff with dry towels to absorb moisture.

The Better Way: Hand Washing Boots

For most boots, hand washing is safer and more effective. Use a bucket of cold water and a mild soap — either a specialized boot cleaner (like Nikwax Footwear Cleaning Gel) or plain dish soap. Avoid harsh detergents.

Dip a soft brush or cloth in the soapy water and scrub the boot’s exterior. For leather, use a damp cloth and saddle soap. For suede, use a suede brush and a tiny amount of vinegar diluted with water. Wipe away soap with a clean, damp cloth.

Clean the inside with a separate cloth. A solution of equal parts white vinegar and water kills bacteria and removes odors. Don’t soak the lining — just dampen the cloth and wipe. Let the boots air dry completely before wearing again.

Drying Your Boots After Cleaning

Heat is the enemy of boot drying. Never put boots on a radiator, in a dryer, or in direct sunlight. High heat shrinks materials, cracks leather, and melts glue. Always air dry at room temperature with good airflow.

Stuff your boots with crumpled newspaper or paper towels. The paper absorbs moisture and helps maintain the shape. Change the paper every few hours until no moisture seeps through. Boot dryers are optional but effective — just use low heat settings.

Let boots dry for at least 24 hours before wearing. If the inside still feels damp, wait another day. Moisture trapped inside leads to mold and bad smells. After drying, apply a conditioner to leather boots to restore oils lost during cleaning.